The vineyards of Saint-Aubin lie just west of, above, and along the same slope as Burgundy’s cluster of Grand Cru vineyards with the name “Montrachet” in them. They lie between 250-350 meters above sea level, so temperatures are a little cooler than those below. This, of course, is essential in preserving the natural acidity of the fruit.
The 2017 vintage for white Burgundy in the Côte d’Or was a great success in terms of both quality and quantity. If one were to take the road left of Le Montrachet up and around the bend, they would enter the Saint-Aubin appellation and the village of Gamay. There you’ll find Domaine Sylvain Langoureau. Sylvain and his wife, Nathalie, farm 10 hectares in the area. Yields are kept low, and they only use a small percentage of new oak.
This 2017 Saint-Aubin is racy and crisp, with aromas of stone, citrus, and orchard fruit. It is ripe and precise, with hints of white pepper and stones. The finish is clean and complex. Drink 2020-2030.
Domaine Parent was founded in Pommard in 1803. It’s now run by the indefatigable Anne Parent and her sister, Catherine, representing the 12th generation of family winemaking tradition. Together, they farm close to 10 hectares in the Côte de Beaune. The Volnay Premier Cru Taillepieds vineyard is just south of the village, between the village and the Premier Cru Clos des Chênes vineyard.
2014 was far from an easy growing season, as a hail storm swept through the Côte du Beaune in late June, destroying fruit in Volnay, Pommard, and Beaune. Parent’s Volnay vines were spared; they were not so lucky with a couple of their Premier Cru Pommard vineyards.
The 2014 Parent Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds is an aromatic delight. Notes of red fruit, berries, currants, earth and spice waft from the glass. It’s medium bodied with a mineral backbone. The finish is complex and lengthy. It should hit its drinking plateau from 2021-2035.