The 2017 vintage for white Burgundy was excellent. Cool nights during the month of June were key in preserving the grapes’ natural acidities, and the remaining growing season went according to script, making for a healthy, abundant harvest.
The Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne vineyard is tiny, at a mere 1.5 hectares, of which almost half was purchased by Paul Pernot’s grandfather! Replanted in 1957, the vineyard sits in a prime location, along the seam of Premier Cru vineyards, between Folatières and Champ Canet.
Paul Pernot is a living legend in Puligny-Montrachet, having run his eponymous estate since 1955. When asked about his 2017’s, Pernot stated they are classic in style, yet will drink well early on. This wine shows elegant aromas of citrus blossom, lemon-lime, and a hint of mineral. On the palate, it opens nicely, maintaining its crispness, to a soft, balanced finish with ample fruit, mineral, and acidity.
It’s going to drink well from 2021- 2035.
2017 was also kind to those growing Pinot Noir in Burgundy. Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau mentioned losing a little production due to some issues early in the growing season, though reduced yields can help the overall quality at harvest. Commenting on the harvest, Bouzereau said, “The bunches were the kind you see on postcards."
The Bourgogne Côte d’Or is a brand new appellation designate. The wines allowed to use this label are made from fruit sourced only within the Côte, meaning it’s a much more restrictive appellation. This serves those producers making wines whose quality is far above those making regional Bourgogne, like this one. Jean-Baptiste further commented on the 2017’s saying, “They're classically styled with good transparency and the moderate acid levels should permit them to be approachable young.”
As for the wine, its aromas are of elegant red berries, earth, and herbs, and the palate is light-medium in body, with refreshing fruit and an air of rusticity.