Château de la Maltroye is located smack dab in the middle of the appellation of Chassagne-Montrachet. It’s surrounded by a host of Premier Cru vineyards including the eponymous monopole, Clos du Château de la Maltroye. Jean-Pierre Cournut has been owner/winemaker since 1993, following his father’s retirement after running the property for some 20 years. When asked about the 2015 growing season in Burgundy, Jean-Pierre replied, “It was a huge relief relative to the last few vintages.” Regarding the harvest, he later added, “the fruit was so clean, I basically paid people to watch it go by on the sorting table.” Such was the case with 2015 white Burgundy; the fruit was perfectly ripe. It was apparent, early on, to Cournut that the wines would be very rich, so he did not perform any battonage on his wines. This village Chassagne is rich and concentrated, suggesting it will age well, though there is plenty of opulence showing already. We recommend drinking it from now-2030.
We are going to be hearing about 2015 red Burgundy for a long time. It’s a benchmark vintage of the highest quality with better than average yields. Burgundy expert Clive Coates, MW has written that in his opinion, the best Premiers Cru vineyards in the Beaune appellation are Grèves and Teurons, stating that they “produce Beaune at its most elegant: fullish, but properly round, rich and balanced, with plenty of depth.” The Premier Cru Teurons vineyard lies in the middle of the Beaune appellation due west of the village. Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry has been running the show and making the wine at Albert Morot since 2000. He immediately implemented organic techniques and now is officially certified. Regarding the 2015 harvest Geoffroy commented that the fruit was, “ripe and as clean as could be.” For his 2015 Teurons, he used 20% whole clusters to give the wine freshness, and was light-handed with extraction. This terroir-driven wine is concentrated and complex. Time in the cellar will help; drink from 2021-2035.
The 2014 vintage for white Burgundy was a great one, and depending on who you ask, it borders on legendary status. August was relatively cool, but it was followed by an exceptional September when the sun shone every day but three. The perfect conditions at harvest assured that there would be some fine wine produced from the vintage. Philippe Pernot, grandson of Paul Pernot, one of Puligny-Montrachet’s most famous vignerons, made just two barrels of his Beaune Premier Cru Pertuisots. That’s just 50 cases for the world, and we got half of them! The 1er Cru Pertuisots vineyard lies south of the village, very near the highly esteemed Clos des Mouches. Considering the ideal conditions, it’s not surprising that the 2014 is Philippe’s best vintage to date. The aromas are fresh and distinct — lime, citrus blossom, snappy green apple, and stony mineral. The palate is concentrated and that stony mineral holds court with the lively fruit. The finish is crisp and perfectly balanced. Enjoy from now-2020.
As great as 2014 was for Burgundy’s white wines, the 2015 vintage is equally magnificent for the reds. Stéphane Magnien represents the fourth generation of winemakers from this branch of the family. The youthful Magnien has Pinot Noir vines growing in some of the Côtes de Nuits’ most prized vineyards, including about a half a hectare in the Premier Cru Les Faconnières, which is literally a stone’s throw from the famous Grand Cru, Clos de la Roche. Magnien’s 2015’s are his most fleshy, easy to approach wines since the 2009 vintage, yet they are classically structured, suggesting they will age gracefully. The bouquet of Stéphane’s 2015 Les Faconnières is wildly expressive with brambly red, blue, and purple berry fruit and spice. The palate is dense and chewy, yet the tannins are finely integrated, and the finish is harmonious. If you want to get the most out of this one, we suggest giving it some time in the cellar. Drink from 2020-2035.