A Taste Of Burgundy - December 2017

Tuesday, January 9, 2018 5:33 PM

A TASTE OF BURGUNDY

DECEMBER 2017

2015 Chassagne-Montrachet
Château de la Maltroye

 2015 Chateau de la Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet BottleChâteau de la Maltroye is located smack dab in the middle of the appellation of Chassagne-Montrachet. It’s surrounded by a host of Premier Cru vineyards including the eponymous monopole, Clos du Château de la Maltroye.  Jean-Pierre Cournut has been owner/winemaker since 1993, following his father’s retirement after running the property for some 20 years.  When asked about the 2015 growing season in Burgundy, Jean-Pierre replied, “It was a huge relief relative to the last few vintages.” Regarding the harvest, he later added, “the fruit was so clean, I basically paid people to watch it go by on the sorting table.”  Such was the case with 2015 white Burgundy; the fruit was perfectly ripe. It was apparent, early on, to Cournut that the wines would be very rich, so he did not perform any battonage on his wines. This village Chassagne is rich and concentrated, suggesting it will age well, though there is plenty of opulence showing already. We recommend drinking it from now-2030.

2015 Beaune 1er Cru Teurons
Domaine Albert Morot

2015 Domaine Albert Morot Beaune 1er Cru Teurons BottleWe are going to be hearing about 2015 red Burgundy for a long time. It’s a benchmark vintage of the highest quality with better than average yields. Burgundy expert Clive Coates, MW has written that in his opinion, the best Premiers Cru vineyards in the Beaune appellation are Grèves and Teurons, stating that they “produce Beaune at its most elegant: fullish, but properly round, rich and balanced, with plenty of depth.” The Premier Cru Teurons vineyard lies in the middle of the Beaune appellation due west of the village. Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry has been running the show and making the wine at Albert Morot since 2000. He immediately implemented organic techniques and now is officially certified. Regarding the 2015 harvest Geoffroy commented that the fruit was, “ripe and as clean as could be.”  For his 2015 Teurons, he used 20% whole clusters to give the wine freshness, and was light-handed with extraction. This terroir-driven wine is concentrated and complex. Time in the cellar will help; drink from 2021-2035. 

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A Taste Of Burgundy – October 2016

Wednesday, October 19, 2016 8:30 PM

TOB-BANNERBasic Facts for those of you who are new to the program: Every two months we select two Burgundies, one red and one white. We include write-ups detailing the background of the grower, the vineyard source, and the wine. Finally we knock a significant percentage off the prices of the wines, making the Sampler price $89.98. If you would like us to add you to the Sampler Club and receive the wines regularly, please notify us in the comments field, and we will charge your card accordingly. If you would like us to ship faster than the standard ground service, please specify this as well.

“pulignysign
 
 

 

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Chateâu, Château de la Maltroye

The 2014 vintage for Burgundy’s white wines is already receiving praise for perhaps being the finest white vintage since 2008 (If not better!). The ingredients were all there; a mild winter and the right amount of rainfall in early March got things going. The remainder of spring stayed dry. A cool, damp summer gave the fruit healthy acidity levels, an Indian summer finished things off, balancing the acidity with fine ripeness. Former aeronautical engineer-turned-winemaker, Jean-Pierre Cornut has already enjoyed a fine reputation over the past decade, but it was Burghound’s Allen Meadows who had this to say after tasting his bottled 2014’s, “I would observe that Cornut continues to push his wine quality even higher, and these 2014’s are definitely worthy of your attention.” We agree wholeheartedly. This signature Clos du Château blanc has fine aromas of citrus and stone fruit, mineral, and spice. The palate feel is bright, with layers of balancing fruit and a clean finish. Give this a little time to let it shine: Drink from 2018-2028.

2014 Marsannay Les Champs Salomon, Domaine Bart

According to Clive Coates MW, in September 2014, “The sun has shone almost without exception throughout the month.” This was especially important for the Pinot Noir that had endured the cool summer. When the month began, the fruit needed to ripen and as Coates puts it, “It is sunshine rather than heat which ripens fruit.” He went on to say, “We have not had such splendid harvest weather for many years. This will ensure high quality across the board.” Pierre Bart feels that his 2014’s are ripe and structured, with a tender, round texture suggesting they will be approachable young. There’s plenty to like about the 2014 Bart Marsannay Les Champs Salomon. The aromas are fresh and complex: dark berry fruit, herbs, minerals, and allspice. On the palate, the wine is silky with good mineral definition framing the complex, medium-bodied fruit. The finish is a well balanced display of fruit, mineral and spice, with the fresh acidity keeping it interesting. It’s enjoyable now, but little cellar time will benefit this wine. We suggest drinking from 2018-2029. – Peter Zavialoff

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A Taste of Burgundy – August 2016

Tuesday, August 23, 2016 6:19 PM

TOB-BANNERBasic Facts for those of you who are new to the program: Every two months we select two Burgundies, one red and one white. We include write-ups detailing the background of the grower, the vineyard source, and the wine. Finally we knock a significant percentage off the prices of the wines, making the Sampler price $89.98. If you would like us to add you to the Sampler Club and receive the wines regularly, please notify us in the comments field, and we will charge your card accordingly. If you would like us to ship faster than the standard ground service, please specify this as well.

 
 

 

2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières,Domaine Pernot-Belicard

Despite the challenges presented during the growing season, the bottled 2013 white Burgundies have proven to be of fine quality. Much like 2007, it’s a great vintage for those who enjoy sleek, crisp, snappy wines with balance and freshness. TOB regulars need no introduction to Philippe Pernot, grandson of Puligny legend, Paul Pernot. Marrying into a family of winegrowers with holdings in both Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault, Philippe and his wife farm over 6 hectares of them. In Puligny-Montrachet, you can find Premier Cru Les Perrières along the same slope as neighboring Clavoillon. Continuing in a southwesterly direction, Les Pucelles comes next, followed by Bâtard-Montrachet. That is one special slope! The 2013 Pernot-Belicard Puligny Perrières is a racy, mineral-driven Puligny with fine lemon peel, wet stone, and spicy vanilla aromas. The palate is crisp and complex as the fleshy apple pie fruit stays in balance with the zesty freshness leading to that snappy finish. Drinking window: Now – 2023.

2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte,Château de la Maltroye

Jean-Pierre Cornut couldn’t help mentioning his good fortune as his holdings were spared from the hailstorms that hit the northern part of the Côte de Beaune in 2013. And believe it or not, despite the overall reports of diminished yields from the vintage, Jean-Pierre’s reds came in as expected with very little sorting required! “The quality of the 2013’s was a huge surprise as I honestly didn’t expect it,” Cornut added. He also mentioned that he felt that the transparency of the terroir was more significant in 2013 than any recent vintage, including 2010. His Premier Cru La Boudriotte vineyard in Chassagne-Montrachet produced an outstanding wine in 2013. The nose is alive with fresh red berry fruit, earthy minerals, herbs and spice. The brambly fruit and earthy tones are concentrated mid-palate, with the zippy freshness holding the structure all together. There is rich complexity on the finish, suggesting the wine can be enjoyed in its youth, though we recommend you drink it from 2018 through 2029. – Peter Zavialoff

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A Taste Of Burgundy – October 2014

Wednesday, October 22, 2014 9:24 PM

landscape

Basic Facts for those of you who are new to the program: Every two months we select two Burgundies, one red and one white. We include write-ups detailing the background of the grower, the vineyard source, and the wine. Finally we knock a significant percentage off the prices of the wines, making the Sampler price $89.98. If you would like us to add you to the Sampler Club and receive the wines regularly, please notify us in the comments field, and we will charge your card accordingly. If you would like us to ship faster than the standard ground service, please specify this as well.


David&Bouzereau
 

2012 Meursault Les Grands Charrons Domaine Michel Bouzereau

It is Michel Bouzereau’s son, Jean-Baptiste who now makes the wine at this prestigious domaine in Meursault. The Les Grands Charrons vineyard is a lieu-dit along the same ridge just further north of the esteemed Les Charmes and Les Genèvrieres vineyards just to name a couple. 2012 was a tricky vintage in Burgundy for both the red and the white wines. Cold, wet conditions were the norm all spring, causing problems in the vineyards and delaying flowering. Alas, what little fruit there was benefited from a perfect July, August, and September. As the harvest approached, the evenings grew quite cool, preserving the acidity levels of the fruit. Outside of the reduced quantity of the 2012 vintage, Jean-Baptiste is quite pleased by the quality of his wines.Burghound’s Allen Meadows had this to say about Bouzereau’s 2012 Les Grands Charrons, “There is good precision and punch to the slightly bigger and richer middle weight flavors that terminate in a saline-inflected and agreeably dry finish.” We recommend drinking this from 2015-2025.

2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Château de la Maltroye

Château de la Maltroye’s Jean-Pierre Cornut calls 2012, “excellent, but tiny.” He says his wines are exceptionally fresh and well-balanced plus the terroir definition is superb. The Clos du Château vineyard is nestled up to the southern part of the village of Chassagne, with the château just above it. Burgundy authority, Clive Coates MW reports there are some who consider the potential of the 2012 reds to be superior to anything recent. That includes 2010, 2009, and 2005! It is just going to be a difficult task finding the wines, considering the tiny production. The normally conservative Allen Meadows gushed with praise of this wine, “There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the detailed yet impressively rich medium weight flavors that possess plenty of tannin-buffering dry extract before culminating in a dusty and seriously complex finish. The balance is impeccable and there is so much mid-palate concentration that this will be approachable young, yet should amply reward up to a decade of cellaring.” Drink 2017-2027. – Peter Zavialoff

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Whew – Things have gotten really crazy around here … I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving! Mine was two-pronged, but I made good on both of my vinous promises.  I shared a bottle of Sauternes with my sister during our traditional LOBSauTERnes Thanksgiving lunch (it was actually from Barsac, you could probably guess the Château). Then, I literally walked in to a dining room and took the last open place at the table surrounded by 10 hungry musicians and friends, magnum of 2011 Fleurie in tow! I basically watched them have their Thanksgiving meal (I did manage to nosh on some brussel sprouts), helping pass various plates and platters around the table, and of course, pouring the wine. Back here in the shop, it’s pandemonium! Our 36th Anniversary Sale is on, and there are values everywhere! Nowhere are the savings better than in our Burgundy department! With so much to choose from, it’s hard to nail down just one wine, but if I were to choose a sale Red Burgundy for my cellar, it would have to be the 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “La Boudriotte” Rouge from Château de la Maltroye. It’s got everything going for it: winemaker, vintage, terroir, and now, price!

 

We’ve been importing the wines, both red and white, made by Jean-Pierre Cornut for 15+ years. Jean-Pierre took over from his father in 1993-94, and he continues to push the envelope for quality for his swath of bottlings. Formerly an aeronautical engineer, Cornut’s inherent meticulous ways have paid off big time as evidenced by the quality of his wines. For his Pinot Noir, he de-stems his entire crop, and the purity of fruit strikes the taster from the moment the aromas hit through the finish. Jean-Pierre got all he wanted (and then some) from the 2009 growing season, each phase of development was greeted by ideal weather conditions. In general, the wines were precocious and expressive upon release, and are currently filling out nicely. They have the structure to go the long haul, and the expressive fruit destined to stay on the front-end of that for a long time. The Premier Cru “La Boudriotte” vineyard sits to the south of the village of Chassagne adjacent to the “Morgeot Vigne Blanche” vineyard. Cornut’s Pinot Noir vines in “La Boudriotte” comprise just half a hectare, so production is extremely limited, but Jean-Pierre feels the terroir particularly distinct and bottles what he can. The aromatics are dominated by dark, lush berries, earth, and incense. There is a savory quality on the palate that binds with the spicy dark berry fruit and intensifies with a zippy lift. The finish is long and balanced, the wine a mere child in its life. You may remember that last year, one of Cornut’s less expensive bottlings wowed the Thursday Tasting Group and won a 2009 Red Burgundy tasting (which included an Echezeaux, no less). The 2009 Boudriotte is a little more of a serious wine with a longer life expectancy, AND as part of our Anniversary Sale, you can have it in your cellar for less than the price of a village wine!

 

So yes, our Anniversary Sale is on! The 2009 Boudriotte is just the tip of the iceberg! We’ll be sending out lists of wines that are on sale, so keep an eye on your inboxes. Meanwhile here at TWH, we’re all here ready to take your phone call, process your online order, or answer your email. Whichever way you would like to place your order, we’re ready. December is here and we’ll be running the sale throughout the month … but don’t wait too long, many of the bottles on sale are in very limited quantities and will sell out sooner than later!

 

Yes it is December, it’s a busy month for all of us, what with the sale and all. It’s a busy sports month for my favorite team overseas, with 9 crucial matches in 31 days. All I know is that we will know much more about the fate of the Blues once the December dust settles. Hey, I’ll take 3rd place on December 1; let’s see what they can do tomorrow. See you at the Mad Dog In The Fog! – Peter Zavialoff

Please feel free to email me with any questions or comments about Our Anniversary Sale, LOBSauTERnes, Bordeaux, or English Football: peter.winehouse@sbcglobal.net

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