Spring=Chardonnay=Domaine Sainte Barbe

Monday, April 13, 2015 5:26 PM

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2012 Viré-Clessé from Domaine Sainte Barbe

Now that it’s officially spring, we can look ahead to all of the excitement that comes with it! Of the many great things about springtime, especially here in SF, is the warmer weather. And when it warms up, it just makes sense to enjoy a little chill in your vino! Anya recently regaled usabout Jean-Marie Chaland’s unoaked Mâcon VillagesLes Tilles, citing its sophistication for an entry-level offering. Jean-Marie also makes wines from Viré-Clessé,and if you love pure Chardonnay expression for a very fair price, you’re not going to want to miss out on these …
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Viré-Clessé is a recently created appellation (1999)in southern Burgundy, singling out a small parcel of land outside of Mâcon’s Pouilly appellations which is capable of producing high-quality Chardonnay. It’s interesting to note that the appellation’s rules dictate that only the dryest (3g residual sugar per liter or lower) wines are allowed to bear the Viré-Clessé label, andChaland makes some sensational wines from this slice of southern Burgundy.
 
For his 2012 Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes, Jean-Marie’s sources are vines all in excess of 55 years old planted in clay and limestone soils. All tank vinified, the wine is aged on its lees for 14 months and bottled. It’s pure, unadulterated Chardonnay, all business, no pretense. Its structure suggests it should be hitting its happy zone from 2017, but an hour or so of decanting now will have it dancing effortlessly on your palate.
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Only 250 cases of Saint Barbe’s 2012 Viré-ClesséPerrière were made. The vines from this vineyard are 35 years old, and typically, the Perrière shows plentiful amounts of mineral notes. It’s aged in barrel, mostly 1 and 2 year old, with 10% being new. The 2012 is a wine marked by rich, ripe, fleshy white fruit flavors. The palate is full, expressive, and accessible; game on!
 
The vines in Chaland’s L’Épinet vineyard were planted in 1940! The soil consists of gravel upon red clay, and it sits on top a hill with southeast exposure. Jean-Marie uses one new barrel and the rest neutral in aging his l’Épinet, giving it a little texture to complement the dazzling, bright yellow fruit. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, the amalgam of complexity in the 2012 Viré-Clessé L’Épinet drinks well beyond its modest price-point.
 
Wow! Exciting times indeed. Springtime is here, warm weather straight ahead! Here are a trio of tasty Chardonnays that will impress your palates without “Burgundizing” your pocketbooks. Enjoy!
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The Wine House San Francisco: Our Top Ten Wines of 2011

Wednesday, January 18, 2012 3:13 PM

Happy New Year! It’s that time of year again where we pick the top ten wines that were released and passed through our shop in the calendar year 2011. We first did this in 2009, and the reaction was so positive thatwe did it again last year. It’s a fun exercise for us here; we taste a lot of wine throughout the year, most of which doesn’t even make it to our sales floor. Of all that DOES meet our standards and make it to the floor, it becomes a difficult task to narrow it down to just 10. But we get there; the most fun part of the exercise is that while discussing the wines, we get to relive the past year in tasting. Remember, some of these wines have sold out, but deserve to be mentioned here based on their merits.

2010 Lugana – Ca’Lojera
Kicking things off here is the first of 7 direct TWH imports in this year’s top 10! Speaking for those of us who have not met her, we’re so jealous that first David, and then Anya met with Ambra Tiraboschi at successive Italian tastings in New York City. The wines that come from Ambra’s Ca’Lojera are a rare breed indeed.Ambra’s Cabernet Sauvignon is a gem that is not to be missed. But it’s what she can do with the Turbiana variety that lands her in our Top Ten of 2011. Her 2010 Lugana is one of our favorite Italian whites that came this way in 2011. It’s yummy goodness of fresh white fleshy fruit and zippy acidity, not to mention modest price, pushes it right into the Top Ten. If this is only the first of ten of this caliber, you might want to grab a seat.
2009 J-M Chaland Vire-Clesse
Speaking of terrific white wine imports … David was (again) lucky enough to be tasting wine in Burgundy last winter and when he tasted through the unoaked Chardonnays from Jean-Marie Chaland he had an epiphany. Brand new for us are a whole line of delicious Maconais wines which scream “White Burgundy Values”. The top of the line Thurissey is made from vines over 90 years old! Seriously, run don’t walk to this wine.
2008 Claude Thomas Zinfandel
Here’s a real TWH story. You should see our calendar. I mean Anya’s calendar. It’s got names and times jotted down for every day she works. There is a line out the door for the opportunity to have Anya taste (and hopefully, buy) the respective wines that each wine rep sells. It’s gotten so out of hand that one producer periodically sends his friends in specifically asking for his wine. Ah, what some people resort to just to make a sale. Sometimes, one of these encounters results in an extraordinary upside surprise,“winemakers to watch” and all. Yet it happened again in 2011 with a Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. When the 2008 Claude Thomas Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel was poured for her, Anya, who by the way loves Zinfandel, was all in! Ripe, brambly berry and spice, we’re all in too. What a pleasure for all of us here at TWH when Tom Stanley drops off cases of his wine! Well done, Tom.
2008 Vignobles Boudinaud Côtes du Rhône Mataro
Back to France. You love Mourvèdre. We love Mourvèdre. What’s not to love? Big, gamy, muscular, earthy wines always have a home with those who love the style. It says Côtes du Rhône on the label. It says Mataro on the label as well, which is what some people in Spain, and apparently in the south of France call Mourvèdre. It’s a Côtes du Rhône made from 100% Mourvèdre. We love that! All of us here at TWH were wowed by this wine in 2011.
2010 Domaine d’Orfeuilles Vouvray
One of our favorite Loire Valley producers, Domaine d’Orfeuilles, you know, the ones that make sparkling Vouvray. Or maybe you’re familiar with their sparkling Touraine Rosémade from Côt, or Malbec as it’s known elsewhere. Maybe you’ve heard of their demi-sec Vouvray “les Coudraies”. Obviously, we’re big fans of these guys! The wine that brought us to them? It was the 2005 Vouvray “Silex”. That was so long ago that there isn’t even a blog link to attach to it. But the ’05 Silex? Crisp and bone dry with that lovely apple-ey goodness that Chenin Blanc is known for … but the mineral swirl? The stuff of legend. So when the 2010 recently went out to wholesale accounts and the sample bottle returned to the shop, we poured out some tastes for our staff … Chris and I took one swirl and taste … “Dude, can you believe that?” (Yes, we talk that way. Mostly just to each other.) “That acidity? That freshness. The mineral. The Fruit? This is better than the ’05!” It was. And it is. And it will be.
Pleiades XX – Sean Thackrey
Ever been to Bolinas? It’s a fun little town just northwest of Stinson Beach in Marin County. It’s tough to find, though. Locals like to take down the sign pointing the way whenever Caltrans puts up a new one. This keeps a lot of tourists out; or at least that’s the locals’ rationale. But Bolinas is home to Sean Thackrey’s winery. Sean Thackrey has been making wine for three decades! And his wines are our kind of wines; he embraces unique winemaking techniques, and sources his fruit from all over California. He brings it all back to his winery in Bolinas and makes wine with his hands. Thackrey’s Pleiades XX cracks the top 5 due to its serious amalgam of complexity and intensity. We are ALWAYS on the lookout for wines like this one! We sold out of the XX, be on the lookout for the XXI!
NV Giavi Prosecco
Prosecco. Serious Prosecco. The NV Giavi Prosecco. You’ve never tasted Prosecco like this before. We’ve got a serious Champagne customer. Serious. This gent will ONLY buy the best highly allocated Grower Champagnes we can get our hands on. He loves this Prosecco. He is actually talking this wine up to restaurants he dines in. Word is out in the restaurant world. We haven’t been able to offer this in our retail shop for months due to the demands of fine restaurants here in the Bay Area and in LA! We’re finally back on track, and once again have the wine in stock for you to try. This is Top Ten kind of Prosecco. Try one and see for yourself.
2009 Château Puy-Servain Montravel Rouge Vieilles Vignes
“Everybody loved it.” That’s what a customer said about the 2009 Montravel Rouge Vieilles Vignes from Château Puy-Servain. What a great 2011 discovery this was!! Instead of relaxing in Bordeaux on the Saturday after the En Primeur tastings, I was off to Montravel to meet with Daniel Hecquet at his Château Puy-Servain. When I tasted his 2009 Montravel Rouge Vieilles Vignes I got butterflies thinking about how cool it was going to be to get the wine over here and onto your tables. And even cooler, the wine sold out quickly. We bought more from Daniel and the next batch should be here by the end of March.
2009 Domaine Michel Bouzereau Bourgogne Blanc
Back to White Burgundy. David has been tasting the wines from Domaine Michel Bouzereau for several vintages, and he’s liked what he’s tasted. But just as he pointed out in regards to the J-M Chaland wines, he likes to taste several vintages before pulling the trigger. Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau is the winemaker these days and he makes some of the finest Premier Cru Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet that we stock here at TWH. You could pick any of Jean-Baptiste’s Premier Crus and put them in the Top Ten, but that’s kind of like cheating. But what’s this? He makes a Bourgogne too! Not only that, it’s a “Bourgogne” though most of the grapes are sourced from in and around Meursault. One taste will have you hooked!
2008 Château Branaire Ducru, St. Julien
Keeping with tradition, we’re going to Bordeaux. It’s so hard to pick just one wine. In 2011, it was the 2008 Bordeaux vintage that hit the market. There were standouts in all categories Red, White, and Gold! But the wine that struck me greatest had to be the 2008 Branaire Ducru. It has everything I look for in a young claret. Its fruit is expressive, the aromas are deep and complex. On the palate, it has a round feel with noticeable structure and more fruit expression braced by the zippy acidity. Great weight and great balance. The finish is long and complex; a perfect reminder as to why I love the wines from St. Julien most. We only have a few bottles left, so sorry when it sells out.
Honorable Mention: 2001 Château Lanessan
Narrowing all that wine tasted over the course of a year down to only 10 is a very difficult task indeed. One main criterion for the list is that the wine be newly released and available to us in said calendar year. But there is one more wine that wowed us in 2011 that deserves a slight mention, the 2001 Château Lanessan. It too was an amazing discovery that was made in the office of one of our negociants in Bordeaux this past April. We sold out of our stock rather quickly, quick enough to still have a chance to buy more! We did, and it’s on its way here. It should arrive at the end of March. – Peter Zavialoff
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August 2011 Dirty Dozen

Monday, August 8, 2011 6:01 PM

Summertime and the livin’ is easy … At least for a few more weeks. But we’ll take what we can get! The naked ladies are out (Belladonna Lilies, silly!), the peaches are perfect, and you’ve got nothing to do but sit back, relax, and enjoy the rest of the summer season with your latest Dirty Dozen. Life really doesn’t get any better than this, does it? From Greece to Gascogne, Cali to the Cotes du Rhone, the DD’s got it all going this month. Aloha August and bon santé!


2010 Rosé “l’Instant”, Domaine Fondreche – $13.99, $11.19 reorder
Every year this Rosé from Ventoux flies off our shelves as those searching for the “palest Rosé you have” have found what they’re looking for in Sebastien Vincenti’s l’Instant. It’s made from 50% Cinsault, 30% Syrah, and 20% Grenache, and when you get a load of its crisp herbal profile, if you close your eyes, you can magically transport yourself to the south of France. Goes great with Salmon.

2010 Domaine de Pouy – $9.49, $7.59 reorder
One of the original components of the very first DD, this blend of Ugni Blanc and Colombard from the Gascogne region in southwestern France has been pleasing TWH customers for over a decade. One would be hard pressed to find a better value in a white wine. It’s bright, it’s crisp, it has hints of citrus, and get this, it comes in at a mere 11.5% alcohol. Screwcap makes it great for picnics.

2009 Macon “les Tilles”, J.M. Chaland – $19.99, $15.99 reorder
Get the white tablecloth, we’re dressing up the Dozen this month with a taste of White Burgundy! That’s right, David tasted Jean-Marie Chaland’s wines the last time he was in France and loved them enough to direct import them. Chaland’s Macon “les Tilles” is pure Chardonnay with no oak interference. It’s bright and precise, and it’s single and on the prowl. Perhaps we should set it up with a lobster?

2010 Roditis-Moscofilero, Skouras – $9.98 net price, $8.98 reorder
Not exactly household names here in California, Roditis and Moscofilero come from a land where winemaking has been going on for millennia, Greece. The bright and lean profile of the Roditis balance the floral Moscofilero and together they shine. Let’s see… a hot August night, a bottle of cool crisp Skouras white, some mesquite grilled trout and the company of your choosing… perfect.

2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Crave – $9.98 net price, $8.98 reorder
We’re not allowed to divulge our source for the Crave Sauvignon Blanc, but let’s just say this is a huuuge domestic value! It’s made by a well-known producer whose estate wines sell for at least twice as much. It has a rich citrus profile and a hint of herb garden.

2010 Gavi, Ernesto Picollo – $10.49 net price, $8.39 reorder
Speaking of values, just off the boat is the newest vintage of Ernesto Picollo’s Gavi! He’s got a couple of fancier, more serious bottlings, but for the sake of value, you cannot beat the Gavi DOCG. Fleshy fruit and minerals dominate the aromatic profile, the wine has great weight and freshness on the palate and the finish is clean and crisp. This is the wine to pour with that halibut crudo.

2007 Touraine Cabernet, Domaine des Corbillieres – $14.99 net price, $11.99 reorder
Loire Valley Cabernet Franc that is. We’re proud to say we’ve been selling Dominique Barbou’s Domaine des Corbillieres wines for over 15 years and still feel like we’re in the honeymoon phase! Violets and rose petals on the nose, vibrant mineral snap on the finish, and a gentle touch of dried herbs. Sooo pretty and versatile, we bet you’ll be smitten too.

2009 Ecuyer de Château Couronneau – $12.79, $10.23 reorder
We love this wine for so many reasons, not the least of which is its ability to show off the impressive quality & structure of the 2009 vintage in Bordeaux without needing 25+ years of cellaring to open up. Rearing and ready to drink, this Merlot is rich, full of character, and as an Agricole Biologique certified wine, the Ecuyer is good for your belly and the environment- Score!

2009 Cotes du Rhone, Domaine de la Guicharde – $10.98 net price, $9.88 reorder
Mostly Grenache, this peppery red is medium-bodied, has hints of black olive and flavors of juicy wild plum. Versatile and bursting with fruit, try pairing it with lamb kebabs and a tian of aubergine. A stunning value from a great vintage!

NV Owl House Red – $7.48 net price, $6.73 reorder
What a marvelous go-to red for your next pizza party! This inventive blend of several red varieties has a good smattering of Counoise, a little known grape that is an integral, though small, component for the famed Chateau de Beaucastel’s Chateauneuf du Pape. It is supple and juicy, low on tannins and high on the yum meter!

2009 Petite Sirah, Shannon Ridge – $11.98 net price, $10.78 reorder
Prepare your teeth whitening strips cause this is one massive, chewy Petite Sirah from an undervalued, yet overachieving region of California, Lake County. Fermented in steel and aged in French and American oak, this wine is truly bang-for-your-buck goodness. Pair with your favorite bbq or grill specialty. Meaty baby-back ribs perhaps? Oh yeah!

2009 Veritable Quandry Red, Odisea – $15.98 net price, $14.38 reorder
Syrah, Grenache, Tempranillo, Alvarelhao (huh?), its all in there and then some. Winemaker Adam Webb has masterfully crafted a velvety, jammy red that wallops a punch of flavor and intensity. Serving suggestions include paella, chicken under a brick or a grilled portabello mushroom burger with a smear of goat cheese. A best-seller from California!

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Independence Day? Really? How nice that it falls on a Monday this year to give us all a long weekend. So, what are y’all doing? Plenty of good weather going around these days. Family gatherings, parades, barbecues and baseball; whatever it is you’re doing, from all of us at TWH, we wish you a Happy 4th of July! With the madness of the 2010 Bordeaux Futurescampaign almost behind us, I’m going to take it easy. I’ll be hanging out with friends and family, hitting a barbecue or two, and whipping something up in the treehouse kitchen. So the question then becomes, what’s it going to be?

 

Don’t for a second think it ever goes down any differently than this: What’s the wine? Tonight, I’m going for White Burgundy. Hang on, before y’all think I’m getting all elitist, let me clarify that by saying I’m going foraffordable White Burgundy! We just sent out David’s introduction to the wines of Jean-Marie Chaland, and your response has been terrific, as many of you took advantage of the steep discount of the sampler. A little insight as to how we roll around here: before we send something like that out, we wait for a day when we’re ALL here (tougher to coordinate than you think), and then we start popping corks. There are no better staff tasting days than those days where the tasting table is full of Burgundy (I say that because there never is a day when anything from Bordeaux is opened in this manner). Sometimes we taste as a group, sometimes in pairs, and sometimes we take solo trips over to the table, it just depends. I happened to make my first run-through with Chris (not the first time), and we were both highly impressed with the lineup. Though the single vineyard wines really strutted their stuff with their depth, complexity and individuality, the wine that I was most pleasantly surprised with was the 2009 Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes! From a pure price perspective, this one delivers … huge! It’s a lively little number that shows fleshy Chardonnay fruit, yet it is rich with mineral driven complexity.Other staffers tasted the wines as well, and we reconvened after closing to share our collective thoughts. I wasn’t alone in being pleasantly surprised by the quality the Vieilles Vignes dishes out for the price! With the fancier single vineyard bottles up for grabs, it was easy for me to not only bring home the VV, but I looked all the more generous by letting my colleagues have the single vineyard bottlings! So yeah, this is how it always goes down. Every time. I’ve got the wine, now what?

A quick check of the temperature at home reveals that it is 90 degrees Farenheit (I’m typing this at 4:00 PM local time). Okay, so that means that I’m pretty much NOT cooking anything, not tonight anyway. Hmmm. If I grab a rotisserie chicken on my way home, I’ve got dinner, breakfast (shredded chicken omelette) and lunch (chicken sandwich) covered. What a great idea! See? One good bottle of wine can inspire 3 meals! Whether at home or at a restaurant,that’s how it goes down. Every time. Wine first, the rest is magic.I’m really looking forward to a couple of days off in a row. I’ll be spending time with family and friends, taking care of a few treehouse related chores, and relaxing. There will be an old fashioned 4th of July Parade right down the street I live on (after the pancake feed, of course), so as long as I stay put, the party’s coming to me. Hmmm. Maybe I should take 2 bottles of Viré-Clessé home!Peter Zavialoff
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