Giving Back – La Cuadrilla!

Monday, July 3, 2017 11:28 AM

What is now known as The La Cuadrilla program at Stolpman Vineyards began as a way for the vineyard manager to better train his crew. The idea was to dedicate a two-acre block, or cuadra, that the vineyard crew had to then cultivate, from pruning to harvest, without supervision. This training block was called the La Cuadrilla, in Spanish meaning the people of the block. To challenge the crew even further, this two-acre training block would be set up in another part of the vineyard the next vintage. Eventually the vineyard manager confided to owner Tom Stolpman the success of this training system. It was Tom who came up with the idea of making wine from that training block and giving those bottles to the crew as a way to enjoy the fruits of their labor. By 2009, the program expanded to include fruit from other parts of the vineyard so that La Cuadrilla could be sold commercially. Profits from the sale of La Cuadrilla are divided among the vineyard crew in the form of a year-end bonus. This is a creative way for all to benefit by incentivizing learning and taking steps to achieve sustainable employment. Bravo to Stolpman Vineyards!

Of course, in order for this program to really work well, the wine has to be good – this can’t be just a gimmick. The 2015 La Cuadrilla is a lively blend of Syrah with small additions of Grenache, some of it old vine, and Sangiovese. The wine is vinified in concrete tanks and then aged in neutral barrel. La Cuadrilla has a lot of brightness and tart red fruit. It isn’t heavy or over-ripe, but is dominated by red fruit flavors and a pleasant, earthy note. Because of its fresh palate feel, it’s a great choice for warm-weather food pairings like smoky barbecued meats.

Stolpman Vineyards is located in the heart of Santa Barbara’s Ballard Canyon AVA. Ballard Canyon is Santa Barbara’s newest AVA and sits between the Santa Rita Hills and Happy Canyon. Ballard Canyon benefits from warm days during the growing season and is protected from wind by the surrounding hills. Temperatures drop significantly at night. Some soils, like at Stolpman, have limestone deposits.

I won’t only be celebrating our nation’s birthday this weekend. I will also be celebrating my mother’s birthday and my own. Mother and daughter will be throwing a joint birthday party! My brother, bless his heart, suggested putting only one candle on each of our birthday desserts. I agreed, adding that we wouldn’t want to ignite a raging inferno. My birthday year was not a particularly good vintage for wine throughout most of world. No worries here because the party calls for youthful wines, so La Cuadrilla will make an appearance on the table. It should be another great family meal up at the dacha out on the deck beneath the Redwoods. Happy Happy, Everyone! – Anya Balistreri

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the 2013 Chardonnay El Camino Vineyard Santa Barbara County from Varner



Varner single-block Chardonnays from the Spring Ridge Vineyard up in the Santa Cruz Mountains are undeniably some of California’s most exquisite Chardonnays. They garner high scores from critics who bestow points, are collected by passionate advocates of California Chardonnay, and are universally admired for their rich fruit and restrained balance. My personal take on the wines is that if you champion and appreciate great Chardonnay, Varner should be on your list of wines to drink. So, can you imagine my excitement when I learned that Varner was about to release a brand new wine from a vineyard in Santa Barbara County?!



As Jim Varner explained to me, he doesn’t really like telling people he can’t sell them any more wine. Poor guy has to do this probably all the time, since Varner wines are allocated and in great demand. It makes sense then that Jim and Bob Varner would want to look for a way to use their Chardonnay making prowess to expand their offerings. Jim went on to explain to me that he and his brother were ready to take on a new project and wanted another creative outlet, so the search was on for the fruit. The El Camino Vineyard in northern Santa Barbara County parallel to the Santa Rita Hills was the right spot. The grapes come from a single block (see a pattern here!) of clone 4 Chardonnay. Clone 4…what does that mean? In the beginning stages of a vineyard’s life, clones matter, but over time – 10 years out or so – Jim tells me grapes can lose their clonal distinction as site overtakes influence on the vines.


Cooking with Varner Chardonnay


El Camino Vineyard is five miles east of the Pacific Ocean with cool, coastal influences, but it is not a windy site. The Varners don’t favor windy sites. The phenolics in the grapes were especially compelling to theVarners and fit in with the direction they wanted to take with this new project. With the 2013 El Camino Vineyard Chardonnay, the Varners de-stemmed the fruit and fermented it in stainless steel tanks. A quarter of the wine was then aged for 6 months in new French oak puncheons, while the rest remained in tank resting on its lees. The intention was to preserve acidity and temper the tropical notes of Santa Barbara Chardonnay, moving flavors towards citrus and apples, convening into “a more tightly coiled Chardonnay in a modern style”.



I must confess, I was taken aback by the wine when I first tasted it because I was expecting another Spring Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay, which it isn’t. I had failed to pay close attention to the tech sheet provided by the winery.This wine is a clear juxtaposition to their barrel-fermented Mountain wines. The 2013 El Camino Vineyard is quick on its feet with pronounced acidity. The tropical fruit notes while not eliminated, play background to the lemony citrus notes. At this stage, none of the oak is detectable. I predict that with some bottle age those flavors might emerge ever so slightly. The tangy acidity and firm structure of the fruit are its dominant features. Jim told me he was under a lot of pressure to release the wine early. I can see why.The quality, price, and the fresh, vibrant style is ideal for restaurant by-the-glass lists, not to mention Varner fans and anyone looking for a different expression of California Chardonnay.


Jim & Bob Varner


Once I put away my expectations of what I thought aVarner Chardonnay should taste like, I began to appreciate the 2013 El Camino Vineyard Chardonnay on its own merit. Fortunately the night I opened a bottle, I had prepared for dinner a simple quesadilla with caramelized onions and sautéed nopales. The green tartness of the nopales was perfect foil for this crisp Chardonnay. It was also another unseasonably warm winter California evening, so something light and fresh was definitely in order. Its no secret that the entire staff at The Wine House are admirers of the Varners. Both Jim and Bob are uncommonly gracious. They’re a couple of the good guys who happen to also make great wine! Oh and here’s a teaser: a Varner Santa Barbara Pinot Noir is coming soon! So stay tuned.
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The Wines From Palmina

Monday, March 4, 2013 6:45 PM

To borrow a phrase from my good friend Mendel, Palmina wines are for people who are interested in Italian varietals from California but do not necessarily want Cal-Ital wines. The 2011 Dolcetto from Palmina is nothing short of delicious and is an authentic expression of the grape. The punched up berry fruit, soft tannins and succulent acidity which are present in the 2011 Palmina Dolcetto are all elements one demands from high quality Piedmontese Dolcettos. The effusive aromatics hint at things to come. The flavors on the palate are stunning – rich, tangy raspberry flavors that remind me of the soft-center fillings of European hard candies. With all that fruit, you might be concerned with the finish, but no need to because there exists a freshness and vibrancy that culminates into a lively, dry finish. It wouldn’t take much effort to drain a bottle before the pizza gets delivered.

Steve Clifton, of Brewer-Clifton fame, has been playing around with Italian varietals grown in Santa Barbara County since 1995. Well, he’s not playing around anymore! I believe, and this is especially true for the last couple of vintages, that the wines from Palmina are spot-on and, again I’ll use this term, authentic expressions of Italian varietals. Their Dolcetto, which can be thought of as Palmina’s entry-level red wine, has commendable depth and personality. I wouldn’t feel cheated out if I were served this rather than a comparably priced Dolcetto from Piedmonte. In fact, I may even prefer it…honestly. The 2011 Dolcetto captures the sun-ripe fruit of south coast grapes without sacrificing balance and attack. Sixteen years experience is evident in Steve’s ability to pick just at the right time and in his confidence to back off in the cellar, allowing the grapes to express themselves as naturally as possible. 
At the conclusion of a tasting appointment, I might ask to have a sample of wine poured into a vial so that I can later get to know it better in the comfort of my home without the distractions of work; nothing like relaxing on a comfy chair with a sample of wine to really get a hold on it. I was so taken with the 2011 Dolcetto at the shop, I felt I just had to take a sample home to examine it further. That evening, I poured my sample into a glass and was about to sit down when my husband, who normally doesn’t share in my imbibing on a weeknight, asked to take a sip. I obliged, giving him the glass, and proceeded to sit down. Reaching back for the glass, low and behold, he had drained it! “Hey”, I said. “That was my sample!” He looked at me with doe-eyed innocence and said, “It’s really good. Don’t you have a bottle opened?” And there I had my confirmation: the 2011 Dolcetto is indeed delicious. I promptly placed an order via my smart phone.

I think that a lot of the intimidation surrounding wine is the idea that only the very top echelon (expensive) wines are good and therefore enjoyable, when in truth this is just rubbish. The good news is that a lot of fabulous and affordable wine is being made from all corners of the world.For well under $20, the 2011 Palmina Dolcetto will out-deliver on quality and flavor, not to mention its ideal pairing with pizza and pasta – so yummy! If you haven’t done so already, it is time to take notice of Palmina, the wines are worth everyone’s consideration. As an added bonus, to accompany the red Dolcetto, we have in stock their white 2011 Arneis; also not to be missed. —Anya Balistreri 
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Old World Italian Varietals and Their New World Makers

Wednesday, July 27, 2011 10:21 PM

I understand. You found paradise in America, you had a good trade, you made a good living. The police protected you and there were courts of law. And you didn’t need a friend like me. But now you come to me, and you say: “Don Corleone, give me justice.” But you don’t ask with respect. You don’t offer friendship. You don’t even think to call me Godfather.…. (Ooohhh, chills).

Well, last night marked the (hold for pensive moment…23rd? 57th? 134th?) time I’ve watched “The Godfather”. How does one describe a movie like this to someone who’s never seen it? Well, if you’re me, your eyes bulge out of their sockets and you stammer out something like What!? How have you never seen this movie?! It’s like, it’s uh… I mean, it’s just really good.

Enough said, right?

OK, for the sake of conversation, you could say it’s the 3-part story of an old world family making their mark on new world soil. Oooh, more chills. And so, it is with this story (and all the delicious details) fresh in my mind that I felt inspired to pay homage to a trilogy of wines with Italian bloodlines but domestic zip codes. The following wines aren’t your typical let’s-take-a-stab at “Cal-Ital” and see what happens type of thing. NOT at all. In fact, I’d venture to guess that the creative minds behind the bottles wouldn’t be too keen with such a quaint categorization of what is not only their professional passion, but their personal identity.



Ex-surfer/rockstar/Italophile, Steve Clifton (of the Brewer-Clifton fame) and his wife Chrystal (fluent Italian speaker and former wine manager at Bouchon) are the the heart & soul behind Palmina in Santa Barbara, where they make wines that not only represent the varietals indigenous to Italy, but also the culture & lifestyle surrounding the consumption of wine. In fact, I don’t think I’ve seen another domestic winemaker so insistent upon the fact that they make wines meant to complement food… in addition to“conversation, celebration, and love.” (I don’t know if that’s more Californian or Italian but I like it!). Based on the two wines we have from them, I’d say they ain’t kidding. Both thePalmina 2010 Santa Barbara County Pinot Grigio and the Palmina 2009 Santa Barbara County Barbera are in a nutshell, wildly unexpected. The fruit shows through in a way that suggests they’re not trying to hide their Santa Barbara upbringing, yet they have thatundeniable acidity & finesse one finds in their quality Italian cohorts. Both were picked from various cool-climate vineyard sites throughout the area and whole cluster-pressed directly after picking in order to retain the cool evening temperatures. The Pinot Grigio is lively and aromatic(two qualities often missing in P.G. on this side of the pond) with hints of lemon curd, quince, and a bit of mineral flintiness that I like quite a bit. While the Barbera is a melange of dark plummy and more tangy cherry/rhubarb fruit underlined by medium tannins and enough earthiness to give it some street cred.


PETRONI VINEYARDS 2006 Rosso di Sonoma

Most people know Lorenzo Petroni as the face behind the San Francisco institution known as North Beach Restaurant, which serves authentic Tuscan cuisine to weary travelers and eccentric locals alike. However, rumor has it that Lorenzo’s first love is the grape. More specifically, his dream was to be the first California vintner to grow the prized Sangiovese Grosso clone from his native Tuscany in Sonoma soil. Lofty, but apparentlynot impossible. In the Spring of 1992, Lorenzo & his wife stumbled upon a vineyard site on the red, rocky, mineral rich terrain of the Mayacamas Range, bought it the next day, and began growing grapes. His Rosso is aSuper Tuscan-like blend of Syrah, Sangiovese, and Cabernet. Again, awine that aptly reflects both its Italian heritage and its high elevation Sonoma home. Dense blackberry & dark cherry, cedar, spicebox, and hintsof the volcanic soil from which it hails are the hallmarks of the Rosso’s aromatics. On the palate the tannins are soft & rich, but again, the old world structure hasn’t been lost to a heavy, overly-extracting hand.

In keeping with my old-world-meets-new-world theme today, I’m going to grab a bottle each of these wines and head out to watch the Brew Crew play the Giants and eat some sausages…. Italian sausages, of course! – Emily

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July 2011 Dirty Dozen

Wednesday, July 6, 2011 1:52 AM

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Yay!  Summer’s here … finally.  To get you going this July, may we suggest the Dirty Dozen.  That’s 12 different bottles, all chosen for their versatility, packed in a case for a song.  A great choice for a long weekend, picnics, parties and any other gathering, you’ll find something for everyone here.  Going global, the July DD represents 6 countries!

2009 Pinot Grigio, Inacayal
Grown in vineyards averaging altitudes of 3000+ feet, Inacayal’s Pinot Grigio is a Pinot Grigio all to itself. The altitude allows for cool nights maintaining proper acidity levels; the warm summer days contribute the rich, ripe, earthy fruitiness that finishes with a kiss of honey. That sweet kiss makes it ideal for light, spicy dishes like kung pao chicken.

2010 Scaia Bianco, Tenuta Sant’Antonio
‘Super Soave’ is what Tom likes to call this one; as blending Garganega with Chardonnay is tantamount to calling Sangiovese/Bordeaux Varietal blends ‘Super Tuscans’. All’s we know is it’s pretty dang yummy for its price point. Think rich, fleshy yellow fruit with just the right amount of zip to make this a no brainer when that lobster salad arrives.

2009 Vinho Verde, Vale da Mina
This crisp, herbal white from Portugal could be the most interesting bottle in the bunch. Its lipsmacking citrusy goodness will make you crave a couple of oysters. Checking in at 11% alcohol, it should be no surprise as to how fast it’s empty.

2006 Gewurztraminer, Herrenweg, Domaine Ehrhart
Philippe Ehrhart coaxes perfect balance of fruit and acidity out of his wines … and his Gewurz Herrenweg is known for its single vineyard richness. Rose petal, lychee nut and spice, this will pair perfectly with spicy curried shrimp.

2008 Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County, ‘The Flying Winemaker’
Cameron Hughes has done us all a solid by sourcing grapes from all over (see below), but let’s talk about the Chardonnay he gets from Santa Barbara County. He gets the fruit from a long-time grower, uses new barrel on a third of it, and produces a delectable, complex Chardonnay that puts a smile on your face and keeps the green in your billfold.

2010 Bordeaux Rosé, l’Ecuyer de Château Couronneau
Brand new for us and fresh off the boat is a Bordeaux Rosé made by our friends Christophe and Bénédicte Piat of Château Couronneau. Bottled under their “l’Ecuyer” label, this fresh Rosé is comprised of 50% Cabernet Franc and 50% Merlot. As you may know, the Piats have been certified Agricole Biologique, so cheers to July … and to organic Rosé!

2005 Tempranillo, Alberto Furque
Trekking back down to Argentina, we’ve got yet another product of high altitude vineyards. In this case, Rioja’s red champion Tempranillo. We love the cedary, tobacco-like nuance of the variety, and combined with the ripe New Worldiness Carolina Furque coaxes from her grapes, it’s all systems go! A little bottle age has given it the time to develop further complexity, which is a huge bonus. Bottled unfiltered, please don’t mind the sediment.

2005 Palombières, Domaine Montpezat
Last call for the Palombières! This seductive little number is made from 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre. The latter providing the backbone for all that juicy fruit. This is a sip-on-its-own wine that is delicious with or without food.

2005 Merlot, Sonoma County, Table Wine, Sutton Cellars
Not your run of the mill, tutti fruity Merlot, this ‘old soul’ of a wine has an amalgam of complexity that will leave you dumbfounded as to how it can be done, in California, for such a price. Leave it to our pal Carl Sutton to come to the rescue. Hints of cigar box and pencil lead are usually complexities found in wines from St. Emilion, but here they are.

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile, ‘The Flying Winemaker’
It’s a long way from Santa Barbara County (see above) to the Maipo Valley in Chile, but again Cameron Hughes knows no borders when it comes to finding fruit that can be made into great wine. Situated between the coastal mountains and the Andes, the Maipo Valley is an ideal growing space for Cabernet Sauvignon. If you’re grilling lamburgers, pour this.

2008 Syrah ‘Only Girls’, Château d’Or et des Gueules
Ah, then there’s Diane Puymorin, who needs no introduction around these parts. Diane has crafted a 100% Syrah from the environs of the southern Rhône, and the result is money in the bank! Rich, round, spicy, unadulterated Syrah fruit will tantalize your palate and make you start thinking about grabbing some mesquite and a chunk of meat.

2007 Chianti Colli Senesi, Sono Montenidoli
This may come as a shocker, for as much as we laud the wines crafted by Mme Puymorin (above), Elisabetta Fagiuoli’s reputation as a winemaker is of legendary status. With vines planted in and around San Gimignano, her wines have a global following. This Chianti Colli Senesi is deep, rich and complex. Elisabetta herself told Anya that this was the wine for barbequing. No, she didn’t mean Memphis pork, she meant, “Just grill something, would ya?” Enjoy!

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