A Taste of Burgundy - August 2017

Friday, January 5, 2018 4:35 PM

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A TASTE OF BURGUNDY

AUGUST 2017

2010 Domaine Xavier Monnot Beaune Toussaints 1er Cru2015 Meursault Les Tessons

Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils

According to Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau, 2015 “presented us with an easy growing season, and for the first time in years, we even obtained reasonable quantities.  Even so, it appeared that we would have a huge production, but in the end, there wasn’t all that much juice in the berries, so yields turned out to be normal.”  The Les Tessons vineyard lies among a cluster of lieu dit vineyards just west of the village.  Burgundy authority, Clive Coates MW named Domaine Michel Bouzereau as one of the “best cellars for (these) Deuxièmes Crus.”   Coates went on to call the domaine the “best of the Bouzereau cellars [with] fine, racy, stylish wines which can be held longer than most.”  Bouzereau began picking his 2015 a little early, in late August, preserving the zippy acidity levels a ripe vintage like 2015 needed for balance.  Burghound’s Allen Meadows writes that the domaine’s 2015 clearly outperformed the general quality of the vintage.  The wine is showing lovely aromas of citrus, peach, apple, and a hint of smoke.  Drink from 2018-2028.

2010 Beaune 1er Cru Les Toussaints

Domaine Xavier Monnot

2010 Xavier Monnot Beaune Les Toussaints 1er CruWe went down to the cellar to pick the red wine for this installment of the T.O.B.!  The 2010 vintage for red Burgundy was a great one, and it seems that all of the pundits agree.  It’s classic in nature, though in general terms, the wines’ structures are firmer than their 2009 counterparts suggesting they’ll be longer lived.  Aubert de Villaine of Domaine Romanée-Conti conveyed that the 2010 reds are more terroir driven than the ripe 2009’s.  In Beaune, the Les Toussaints vineyard is just west of the village, sandwiched between Cent Vignes, Bressandes, and Les Grèves along the mineral-rich line of Premier Cru vineyards at the base of the slope.  Formerly known as Domaine René Monnier (named for his maternal grandfather), Xavier Monnot can trace his lineage back for six generations of winegrowers.   His 2010 Les Toussaints shows crunchy dark fruit, smoke, and spice on the nose.  The palate is medium bodied and well balanced with the dark fruit at its core.  The finish is bright and all in balance.  It’s just hitting its drinking plateau now and should provide pleasure through 2027.       

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A Taste Of Burgundy – June 2017

Thursday, June 22, 2017 11:15 AM

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2015 Puligny-Montrachet 

Domaine Paul Pernot et ses Fils

When asked about the 2015 vintage, Paul Pernot said, “It gave us a relatively easy growing season, which was a welcome relief after the last three years where things were constantly in doubt. Basically, the weather was hot in the spring, hot during the summer, and hot right up to the point the fruit was set to pick, and finally the temperatures broke. When it did, we began picking. The fruit was spotless with very good potential alcohols that averaged right around 13%. As to the wines, I would describe them as both very ripe and rich, yet they manage to remain well-balanced and refreshing. They should drink well early on and should very much please those consumers who enjoy young whites.” For his Puligny-Montrachet bottling, Pernot sources the fruit from four lieux-dit vineyards whose average age is 50 years. This 2015 is raring to go with its wide array of aromas: snappy apple, citrus blossom, and a hint of mint. The palate is round and rich, held together with buoyant acidity. It has a sneaky, long finish. Drink 2018-2026.



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2014 Fixin-Hervelets 1er Cru 

Domaine Bart

We featured the 2013 vintage of Martin Bart’s Fixin-Hervelets 1er Cru back in the October 2015 installment of our TOB. Due to popular demand, we now feature his 2014! Now run by nephew, Pierre, with Martin looking on, the Barts tend some 22 hectares of vines in the north of Côtes de Nuits. There are five 1er Cru vineyards in Fixin, three of which are monopoles. The other two are Les Arvelets and Les Hervelets. The fruit for this bottling comes from a 1.5ha parcel between the two. Fruit from Arvelets may be included in bottles labeled Hervelets, but not vice-versa. The two vineyards enjoy their perch on the gentle slope which sits just above the other 1er Cru vineyards. Apart from a mediocre summer, Pierre has said the growing season was relatively easy. Commenting on the ripeness and structure of his 2014’s, Pierre went on to say, ” there is a roundness, even tenderness to the textures which should make them approachable young.” Mineral notes abound in this refined, medium-bodied wine. Drink 2019-2030. – Peter Zavialoff

A Taste Of Burgundy – February 2017

Tuesday, February 21, 2017 11:58 AM

2014 Viré-Clessé Thurissey – Domaine Sainte Barbe

Jean-Marie Chaland founded Domaine Sainte Barbe in 1999. He farms 8 hectares in and around Viré-Clessé organically, achieving certification in 2006. He has old vines, as 75% of his holdings are over 50 years old. Chaland’s vines in the lieu dit Thurissey are over 90! Thurissey is a tiny vineyard, consisting of half a hectare facing due south. Jean-Marie makes a mere 200 cases of his showpiece wine, and no new oak is used. The vineyard has a reputation for producing wines that are rich in minerality, and we imagine the roots of Chaland’s old vines are deep into the clay and limestone subsoil. There’s no doubt that 2014 was an exceptional vintage for white Burgundy, and the 2014 Viré-Clessé Thurissey from Domaine Sainte Barbe is one special wine. Its aromas are of citrus blossoms, snappy apples, and stony minerals. The palate is rich and bright with a hint of a saline/mineral quality, and the wine intensifies at the mid-palate. It’s tightly coiled and ready to spring. Drink this from 2020-2030.


2010 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Aux Petites Noix – Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Stéphane Magnien is now the fourth generation winemaker at this domaine in Morey-Saint-Denis which dates back to 1897. He took the reins from his father, Jean-Paul in 2008, and farms 4.5 hectares in the Côte de Nuits. Though his holdings may appear small, they include some fancy locales. Stéphane’s Aux Petites Noix is actually a blend of his holdings in Premier Crus Les Greunchers and Clos Baulet, two tiny vineyards just east of the village. One doesn’t need to do much research to understand that 2010 was an exceptional vintage for red Burgundy, particularly in the Côte de Nuits. In general terms, the wines are teeming with expression and are structured sufficiently for a long life in the cellar. Magnien’s 2010 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Aux Petites Noix is in a beautiful place at the moment, showing aromas of briary red berry fruit, earthy mineral, and forest floor. It’s medium in body with great balance and expression. It’s open for business and can be enjoyed from today through the 2020’s. – Peter Zavialoff

A Taste Of Burgundy – December 2015

Thursday, December 10, 2015 9:08 PM

TOB-BANNERBasic Facts for those of you who are new to the program: Every two months we select two Burgundies, one red and one white. We include write-ups detailing the background of the grower, the vineyard source, and the wine. Finally we knock a significant percentage off the prices of the wines, making the Sampler price $89.98. If you would like us to add you to the Sampler Club and receive the wines regularly, please notify us in the comments field, and we will charge your card accordingly. If you would like us to ship faster than the standard ground service, please specify this as well.

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2013 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros

Maison Dampt

The Dampt name has been known in Chablis for over 150 years. Sébastien and his brother Vincent represent the next generation of the family’s vignerons. Together they have worked for their father’s Domaine Daniel Dampt; and Sébastien has been bottling wines under his own name since 2007. Maison Dampt is yet another project involving the trio, using purchased must from a few of Chablis’ Grand Cru vineyards. Bougros is the western-most of the cluster of Chablis Grands Crus, and sits on the same slope as Les Grenouilles and Les Clos, all three just north/northwest of the village. Though volume was very low yet again, the 2013 vintage in Chablis yielded medium-bodied wines with pretty floral aromas that should provide pleasure for early to medium-term drinking. This 2013 Grand Cru Bougros is a bit of an exception to that. It’s sturdy and dense and it has seen some time in oak barrels. We would recommend decanting should you wish to taste this early in its life, otherwise it should be fantastic from 2018-2026+.

2012 Beaune 1er Cru Teurons

Domaine Albert Morot

“Domaine Albert Morot is a very good place to start investigating Beaune.” Or so said Clive Coates MW in his comprehensive Burgundy reference book Côte d’Or. Domaine Albert Morot was founded in 1820, and Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry has been winemaker there since 1999. Regarding his 2012’s, he stated, “I like the vintage as the wines are ripe, fresh and concentrated, in fact there’s really not much to dislike about them.” It has been mentioned here that despite the challenges and low production from the 2012 red Burgundy vintage, the quality of the harvested fruit is on par with the finest vintages of the 2000’s. The sizable 1er Cru Les Teurons sits just west/northwest of the village of Beaune, and is known for producing red wines that are, in Coates’ words, “fullish but properly round, rich and balanced, with plenty of depth.” The 2012 Morot 1er Cru Teurons is a formidable wine which could stand a few years in the cellar before strutting its stuff. It will be at its best from 2020-2030 and beyond. – Peter Zavialoff

 

Reg. $114.98

On Sale $89.98

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